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Bob America (right) and Rich feel the stoke. Psst. Don’t tell anyone, but I think I just might be getting better at this surfing thing. If you’ve been reading this blog, you know that there’s a move I find super-scary – tipping myself over the edge of a wave that is big enough [...] The Bay Area’s wind this weekend is so atypical that it made the evening news. In Southern California, still smoking from last week’s wildfires, these gusts might be called a Santa Ana. But here they’re so unusual they don’t have a name. Driving to Linda Mar in the bright sunshine I noticed that the American [...] Tonight I floated at Linda Mar in a fog. I mean real fog – a thick cloud hugging the water – but the weather made my brain foggy, too, like I was surfing in a restless dream. Waves rolled out of the mist, but I couldn’t read their size or contour. The beach was back [...] I am proud to report my first surfboard repair. My favorite steed, a Bing Bonzer, somehow developed an inch-long tear on the rail, and I opted for an in-house convalescence. The girl at the NorCal Surf Shop sold me a tube of resin and said a dab would do me. With the help of two [...] This evening little drops of brine keep shedding from my nose. They taste of Ocean Beach. This morning I braved Ocean Beach, my nemesis, in the company of my friend Scott, and the power of the waves sent saltwater into my sinuses like a firehose. image source: treehugger.com If a wave at Linda Mar [...] I woke up this morning and one look out the window propelled me out of bed. The sky was serene blue and every tree glowed gold in the October light. A perfect San Francisco fall day. It’s an easy mistake, thinking a fair sky means a fair sea. Photo Credit: bible.ca I drove into [...] image source: seafloor.csumb.edu/Map_Gallery I wonder sometimes if America’s obsession with surfing is due for an ebb tide. Haven’t all the good waves have been surfed already? Is the demand for “Endless Summer” movies really endless? Is there anything left to say about this sport? However, after attending a lecture on the science of surfing [...] Just to scare myself, I have started reading The Devil’s Teeth, a book about the great white sharks that feed at the Farallon Islands, just 30 miles or so from my favorite surf spots. The first sentence, about a seal execution, raises the hackles of a surfer and keeps him reading: “The killing took place [...] Every surf break has its alpha male, and this afternoon at Linda Mar beach it was a man I’ll call Methuselah, a heavyset man with a bald head and a bull neck and a wet gray goatee. He positioned himself far out, turned his back on the other surfers and looked straight out to sea. [...] This morning Bob America lurched over to my place for a surf session despite the rough fermentation of the night before. He had downed two Negro Modelos, two glasses of an Australian pinot, a glass of bubbly and two pints of Guinness, best he could remember. The libations had stayed till morning and were now [...] |
 David Ferris is managing editor of the Matter Network. As journalist and columnist, he explores the role of business and technology in making our world more sustainable. Learn more. |
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