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I had just struggled onto my second wave this morning at Ocean Beach when something blue-black flickered past me quick as a starling. The apparition was past before I recognized it as a fellow boardsman. Sliding along a sixty-degree wall of water, he had simply weaved around me, no room to spare, like Jackie Chan [...] [...] Rodeo Beach is a junkyard dog of a surf break. It is fast and steep and has bitten me every time I’ve visited it; this morning I tiptoed in, hoping to have a couple joyrides without making it angry. Only three other surfers were out and they placed themselves in the gunsight of the break, [...] If you stood on shore and watched me surf, you would not be reminded of the muscular boardwork of Laird Hamilton or the boys of “Endless Summer” cruising off Diamond Head. You would watch me pitch face-first off my board, again, and ask yourself: Should I call 911? Photo Credit: your-local-surf.blogspot.com Then, as you [...] |
 David Ferris is managing editor of the Matter Network. As journalist and columnist, he explores the role of business and technology in making our world more sustainable. Learn more. |
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Copyright © 2012 The Ferris Files - All Rights Reserved |
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